Wednesday, August 5, 2009

Coffee in Central European Life

Have you ever stopped and thought how a seemingly everyday consumable like coffee shows a lot about who you are and where you are from?
Coffee has a long and important tradition, also in Central Europe. Turks introduced it during their centuries long dominance, it was introduced via a back door into popular and highbrow culture. In Central European cities like Wien and Budapest, coffee houses played an important role in meeting, creation and (in Budapest, 1848) in revolutionary processes.
Coffee became an inseparable part of daily life, daily work, of protocol and shared feelings.
In Hungary, as in Italy, coffee is often prepared in a percolator. I have not encountered this method anywhere else, unless we count the “espresso machine” system (the ones the latter day baristas use and abuse).
As of Transylvania, the “ibrik” serves us Turkish coffee: the kind that we have to sweeten while brewing, as it is served with the grinds in a tiny cup.
Since the fall of the Wall and the change of the system, filter coffee has made headways into the more labor-intensive but much tastier domain of the percolator and the ibrik. I remember introducing Hungarians to what they called “American” or “German” coffee in the beginning of the 90s and watching them pull faces and calling the liquid I served out of the freshly brewed filter coffee pot “weak tea”.
Central Europeans used to drink maximum 2 cups of coffee per day: in the morning to wake up, after lunch with a cigarette to digest. In Belgium, I grew up in a working culture that served coffee in massive quantities all day long. Liters and liters of the intoxicant were ingested in the course of a working day.
Real coffee had to brewed at home, preferably by some one taking their time and lovingly handling the percolator. Coffee was meant to sooth the spirit, to help in awakening, to break the ice in conversations.
Hotel coffee was the exact and horrible opposite: nescafé left to burn and cook for hours, leaving it tasting like asphalt.
The culture of coffee still thrives in Central Europe, next to the “Seattle” wave of coffee shops, the real kávéház, cukrázda, cofetarie, kavarna or Konditorei still has its place in local communities, folklore and in tourist’s hearts.

the Black Sea at Costinesti, Romania


one of the nicer restaurants, not too far from Costinesti, near a village called "August 23"



an average day in July-August at the Black Sea coast...
Hotels in Costinesti range between 30-70 EUR/person/night
This is Costinesti's landmark: a greek merchant ship stranded here in the 70s


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bird's eye view of Revolution Square, Bucuresti

this picture shows the Piata Revolutiei, where the December 1989 "revolution" is commemorated. The temperature approached 40° when this picture was taken (mid July). Note the many abandoned construction sites on the horizon, waiting for further bank financing to materialize
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a view from Constanta

This is a view from the restaurant in the marina in Constanta, Romania.
The building you see is a mosque built for the muslim minority by the royal family of Romania (Hohenzollern of German Kaiser fame) in the beginning of the 20th century.
The Muezzin calls out for prayers and the best place to listen is in the slightly touristic restaurant in the port.
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De Standaard - 'Kijk naar de hele kameel'

De Standaard - 'Kijk naar de hele kameel'

An excellent interview in the Flemish De Standaard with Prof Wim Moesen about the regained role of government in regulating both the financial ecomony as the real economy. The key words of Prof Moesen's ideas are TRUST and EFFICIENCY.
To function correctly and to ensure transactions, the economy needs trust between the different players. Government can, through correct regulation, ensure this trust.
Efficiency means that the regulation provided by the government is accountable, measureable and stimulates initiative.

Both factors are very essential in any steps that governments in Central Europe will have to take in the comings period.